Break the Trip with Ava

Oh, how evil is Interstate 95.

The north/south artery of the east coast of the United States, once a monument to American motoring, is now a filthy, fume clogged, congested menace of a road overfilled with rampaging cars and trucks. The only place to eat is at nasty fast food restaurants whose rancid fat knocks you back before you get out of the car. Tacky chain hotels dot the landscape. It’s a horror.

But chances are that if you are travelling on the east coast of the US, sooner or later, you too will find yourself on 95. If so, and if you are heading south, I have a suggestion for how you can get only one mile off that road, have a neat “No Crowds” experience for an hour or so, eat an inexpensive and authentic lunch and maybe even bag a bargain or two.

Five hours south of Washington and one mile off I95 at Exit 95 in Smithfield, North Carolina is the Ava Gardner Museum http://www.avagardner.org/ . That’s right, a museum dedicated to the life and times of the Hollywood goddess, one of Smithfield’s most famous native daughters. Even if you have never been interested in Ava Gardner, Hollywood, movies or movie stars, this is a wonderful gem of a museum.

First, Ava Gardner was as drop dead gorgeous as they come. What’s more, she had an interesting if tempestuous and ultimately sad life with lots of equally famous husbands. The Ava Gardner Museum takes all these ingredients and tells a really interesting story about one woman’s rise to fame during the golden age of Hollywood. I spent a very happy hour in the place recently and highly recommend it. The curatorship is first class. The objects are beautifully presented and well explained. There is an excellent film which introduces the story and sympathetically sucks you in. How the collection of memorabilia and the museum came about is a mind boggling tale in itself. The gift shop has a small but truly camp collection of things to buy which would make superb stocking stuffers for even the most jaded person on your Christmas list. And all of this only a 5 minute journey off that evil road.

If you are feeling hungry before or after your visit, you can get a fine sandwich around the corner from the museum at Marla’s. My children swear that the Italian subs at Marla’s are the finest sandwiches anywhere in the world. I’m not so sure, but they are good. Everything is made fresh to order and the place is packed with locals. Marla’s can be found at 135 South Third Street next to the Howell Theatre. Marla’s opening times are idiosyncratic so be careful. Open Monday and Friday 8-8, Tuesday through Thurday 8-2, Saturday 8-2:30 and closed on Sunday.

Before getting back on 95, if it is a weekday (absolutely forget doing this on the weekend, particularly in the summer) you can pay a visit to a vast outlet shopping emporium, Carolina Premium Outlets, http://www.premiumoutlets.com/carolina where, over the years, I have found very good buys on lots of branded merchandise such as Gap, Ralph Lauren, Samsonite, Banana Republic and Nike. It’s a big horrible concrete jungle of a place. There’s nothing nice or charming about it but if it is a good buy you want and the time is right, it can be worth a visit.

So that’s my suggestion for how to beat the I95 blues. Can anyone suggest other places along the stretch from Maine to Florida where you can find quick, easy and interesting alternatives to the mind numbing and disgusting chains? I’ve checked out several websites listing Gourmet food off I95 and nice places to stay and when they included chains like Ruby Tuesdays (yuk!) and EconoLodge I knew that No Crowds had a job to do. Together, we can take back the American Interstate experience, one exit at a time.

Beaufort Addendum

I asked my friend, Mase, a Beaufort native, to check my material on his former hometown, and he had this to add:

"The one thing that I thought about that might be interesting to your readers is that "The Dockhouse" is a great place to relax outside with drinks while mixing with boat owners from around the world whose yachts are docked footsteps away in the town marina, listening to live music most nights of the week, or watching people stroll up and down the boardwalk. One of the great pleasures of Beaufort is that it is small and compact, so you are certain to meet people from all over who are spending the night or several days in the marina."

Thanks, Mase.

Beaufort, North Carolina

In Search of Lost Time on the Carolina Coast

Picking up my son at Raleigh-Durham Airport, I stupidly left my copy of Marcel Proust’s “Remembrances of Things Past” on top of the automatic parking ticket machine which, at the time, seemed auspicious. My project for the summer could have been resurrected by Amazon but instead I put off reading Proust for yet another year. Still, my appetite for recapturing the past was more than satisfied during the week I spent in Beaufort, an historic seaport on the North Carolina coast which retains an authentic small town atmosphere despite the crush of modern tourism elsewhere on North Carolina's Outer Banks. Frankly, if I had the mass readership of a travel writer such as Rick Steves, I wouldn’t even be telling you about Beaufort, which I visit every summer. Beaufort is too unspoiled to share.

Established in 1709, the town was once the home of whalers, merchants, fishermen and even pirates, including the notorious Blackbeard. Over 100 historic homes remain which are beautifully preserved by the current residents. The streets are wide, shady and quiet. Gardens are lovingly maintained. Wild ponies can be seen grazing on Carrot Island and local children spend lazy afternoons jumping off the town dock. In fact, children are able to walk around Beaufort as children used to do, on foot or bikes or in boats, unsupervised and just happy to be out of school.

With children or without, it is fun to buy an ice cream from the General Store and walk along the bustling waterfront to soak up the nautical atmosphere. Some of the boats are pretty spectacular, huge yachts hailing from tax havens from around the world. There are ferries to isolated places to swim where, thanks to the Gulf Stream, the water temperature is a blissful 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Also on offer are harbour cruises, ecology cruises, parasailing, scuba diving, kayaking and a ride on a speed boat that looks like a shark, which the locals hate, but my 8 year old daughter finds thrilling. Deep sea fishing and bird watching are also popular.

Beaufort is also the perfect place to walk, jog and bicycle. The terrain is flat, the scenery is lovely and the other walkers, joggers and bicyclists are some of the friendliest people you will ever meet in your life. On my daily run from my parents’ house to the fish factory at the end of town, I would encounter rabbits, cranes, wild ponies and very little traffic. On the other hand, sitting on porches, sipping iced tea and doing absolutely nothing is also a perfectly respectable Beaufort pastime.

There is an active historic association http://historicbeaufort.com/bhaindex.htm which maintains a small but interesting collection of 18th and 19th century buildings you can visit as well as an historic graveyard, The Old Burying Ground, which looks like it is straight out of “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil”. My daughter was fascinated by the grave of the girl in the rum barrel who died at sea while returning from England but was brought back to Beaufort in the barrel to be buried. Today, her grave, sheltered by 100 year old live oak trees, is covered in cult-like fashion with toys, trinkets, flags and coins which visitors have left. There is also the grave of a British officer who died on a ship in Beaufort harbour and was buried standing up “in rebel’s ground”.

Families will enjoy a visit to the North Carolina Maritime Museum http://www.ah.dcr.state.nc.us/sections/maritime/default.htm containing a mind blowing collection of shells, lots of interesting facts and stories about Blackbeard the Pirate and a wealth of information about preserving the fragile coastal ecosystem. Across the street, there is an historic boat building operation where the hardy and practical ships of the past are being lovingly recreated. During the summer, the Maritime Museum holds one day “Build Your Own Boat Workshops” for a child working with an adult. By the end of the day, participants take home proper seaworthy boats that work well and look great, having learned a tremendous amount about the art of ship making.

For such a small town, Beaufort has a good selection of restaurants. Informal sandwiches and local seafood can be found at the Beaufort Grocery Company (which becomes more formal in the evening) and Finz’s Grill while delicious, upscale dining is available at Stillwater http://www.frontstreetgrillatstillwater.com/ with beautiful views over Beaufort Harbor, Blue Moon Café and and the recently opened Sharpies Grill. Your options for accommodations range from 2 inns, a number of good bed and breakfasts such as The Cedars http://www.cedarsinn.com/ and the Pecan Tree Inn http://www.pecantree.com/ and house rentals, which are a good deal if you are staying for at least a week. Check with Beaufort Realty http://www.beaufortrlty.com/ for rentals.

Interesting shopping can be found in the local stores and boutiques which focus primarily on things nautical and aquatic and the best news of all is that there is not a Gap or Banana Republic in sight. The Rocking Chair Bookstore has a well thought out selection of bestsellers and books of local interest. There are several well patronised coffee shops but no Starbucks.

On the drive down from Washington, D.C. to Beaufort each year, I pass an increasing number of SUVs filled to bursting with families on their way to the beach. I see these hot and irritated folks at the horrible and crowded fast food restaurants which is the only food available on Interstate 95. But I don’t find these people or the frenetic atmosphere they create in Beaufort and that is why Beaufort is the best place I know to relax, recreate, visit, eat and play. It is very southern in a “step back in time kind of way” and has been described, with some justification, as "Nantucket with a southern drawl". It has none of the glitz or hype of its better known northern counterpart. In fact, this is still a lovely small town where friendly residents and tourists peacefully co-exist for a few months. The pace is slow, there is not much to do at night, it is hot during the day, yet after a holiday in Beaufort, I feel that I have successfully recaptured those endless summer days of my childhood where doing anything and nothing was always possible.

London Shopping Plus A Great Small Museum

The sales are on in London and one of my favourite places to go to hunt for bargains is Kensington High Street. Sure, it has neither the posh of Bond Street, the cutting edge of Notting Hill nor the sheer volume of Oxford Street but I always do well there. Between H&M, Zara, Marks & Spencer and Habitat and others, I have no problem finding those bargains that make the London sales fun and really affordable. After a morning of shopping and a quick lunch at Wagamama http://www.wagamama.com/ , I try to leave time for one of my favourite small museums, Leighton House, which can be found minutes away from the busy Kensington High Street.

On a recent visit to Leighton House, the former home and studio of Frederic, Lord Leighton (1830 - 1896), a leading painter of the day, I had the museum to myself. This is a wonderful place to go if you are looking for a sophisticated take on the Victorian experience and a particularly good place to visit if you like to imagine what it would have been like to live as an artist or intellectual of the day.

As an eminent artist and former President of the Royal Academy, Leighton surrounded himself with sumptuous decoration. The centrepiece of this private world, the Arab Hall shown in the photo, was originally built to display Leighton's priceless collection of Islamic tiles, most from Damascus. The sound of water in a fountain set surprisingly in the centre of the floor, emphasizes the oriental mood. There is even a full wooden harem screen and balcony set into the ceiling and accessible from the floor above.

Along with the ancient tiles, there are also wonderful Victorian tiles created by the leading ceramicist of the time, William De Morgan as well as ceramics from China and Turkey.

In the dining room, which backs onto the extensive garden, you can feel what it would have been like to sit down to properly prepared meals served on china, linen and crystal in the company of other intellectuals and artists of the day such as Burne-Jones and Millais.

A short walk up the impressive staircase and you come to the artist’s studio. Even though it was a wet and dreary day for my visit, the enormous north facing window flooded the room with light. Again, you immediately sense that this was the place where the work was done, where intellectuals met and Leighton's renowned musical evenings took place.

The next time you are tired of shopping, beat a fast retreat to Leighton House in Kensington and commune with the Victorians in peace and pleasure. I highly recommend it.

Leighton House is open daily from 11:00 to 5:30 except Tuesdays, Christmas, Boxing Day and New Years.

http://www.rbkc.gov.uk/LeightonHouseMuseum/General/default.asp

12 Holland Park Road
020 7602 3316

Brompton Cemetery - Not Just for Joggers or Bloggers

As I ran through west London this morning, following yesterday’s terrorist explosions which killed at least 37 and wounded hundreds more, I saw people going about their business in a purposeful way, in that way that is so familiar to me now, of a population that takes the business of “getting on with it” very seriously. I don’t know why exactly, but I decided to visit the Brompton Cemetery on my morning jog today. Probably it had something to do with the terrible bombings. It starts you thinking.

Once inside the Brompton Cemetery, my scene changed from scores of resolute commuters to dog walkers, fellow joggers, bicyclists, an alcoholic well into his daily quota and according to the sign at the front, roughly 210,000 permanent residents. Part wildlife preserve, part Hollywood set, here is the perfect line-up of romance, theatre and history. As birds sang and squirrels scampered, I stopped and read story after story of beloved wives and mothers, Generals, scientists and musicians and so many lost babies. After the chaos and destruction of the day before, the Brompton Cemetery was a strangely serene and peaceful place.

All cemeteries tell stories and that is what I like about them, stories about families, fashion, disease, love, war, immigration and death. The great London Victorian public cemeteries, such as Brompton and Highgate, established to handle the explosion of London’s population following the Napoleonic Wars tell remarkably vivid stories about the city, its inhabitants and their pre-occupations. And needless to say, cemeteries are not crowded or touristy.

You can visit the Brompton Cemetery daily from 8:00 AM to dusk. The closest tube is West Brompton on the District Line. The cemetery is managed by the Royal Parks and more information can be found at

http://www.royalparks.org.uk/parks/brompton_cemetery/about.cfm

Toilet-Themed Taiwan Restaurant

Ever so often, we see something that is so amazing that it is worth fighting the crowds. This is one of those times. They're packing them in at the toilet-themed restaurant in the southern Taiwan city of Kaohsiung where the manager described the food as "tasty".

In the photo, a family is enjoying a meal together. Now I really want to go to Taiwan.

http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/taiwan_toilet_dc (Reuters via Yahoo)

London Silver Vaults

My grandmother was one of the world’s great shoppers. It was not beyond her to purchase things which she would leave at the store because she just didn’t have any more room in her house. But even an enthusiast like my grandmother would find today’s homogenised shopping experience greatly diminished. Whether you are in Selfridges in London, Galleries Lafayette in Paris or Bloomingdales in New York, it’s all the same stuff. You could be anywhere and what you bring home says little about where you have been. It was probably made in China anyway.

That is why I jumped at the chance to visit the London Silver Vaults www.thesilvervaults.com in pursuit of an important gift which all the givers, spread across two continents, agreed should be silver. Finally, I had a reason to shop for something unique and authentically English, recognised throughout the world for the highest standards of quality and craftsmanship. I was anticipating a great “No Crowds” shopping experience.

The Silver Vaults opened in 1876 to rent storage vaults to London’s elite for the safekeeping of their silver, jewellery and documents. Over the years, silver dealers have taken over, until today there are approximately 37 dealers offering the world’s largest collection of fine antique silver.

Entering the Silver Vaults by a side street off Chancery Lane, you know these guys mean business. Very serious, rather polite guards at the front desk search your bags and direct you down the stairs. After passing through the thick vault doors and wandering down several corridors, I arrive at the first dealer, in a somewhat intimidating overly crowded small room. Thinking it is too obvious and probably not a good tactic to start with the first door on the right, I progress down several more corridors and around several corners until I come to a shop that has a welcoming air.

John Binks of Stephen Kalms was unpacking boxes of silver having just returned from a large exhibition of art and antiques. I explained my mission and received my first of many short and interesting classes in the history of silver. Mr Binks showed me several wonderful pieces, explained the background, translated the hallmarks, and seemed genuinely interested in helping me find the piece I was looking for. With this good experience under my belt, I went on to explore the other shops, finally finding and purchasing a beautiful silver tray back at Stephen Kalms, this time directly from Stephen.

This was a first class shopping experience. I learned a tremendous amount about the history of English silver from knowledgeable and agreeable instructors. No one rushed me. The shops were never crowded with people although occasionally crowded with silver. It was a hot summer day but cool underground. Most importantly, I had acquired a unique and lovely object where the place of origin, the company and the year could be identified. I knew that the lucky recipient of the gift would not find anything like it in Selfridges, Galleries Lafayette or Bloomingdales and that made me very happy.

I think a visit to the London Silver Vaults is a great idea even if you are not a silver collector. For as little as £50, you can find small objects such as napkin rings which are beautifully made and steeped in history. I found the dealers to be a nice group of people and happy to share their considerable knowledge whether you buy or not. Combining a shopping excursion to the Silver Vaults with a visit to the Sir John Soanes Museum and a stroll through the Inns of Court, strikes me as a perfect way to spend the better part of a day in London.

Emerging into the 90 degree heat of street level with my purchase complete, I was almost tempted to turn right back around to re-enter that wonderful, uniquely English treasure trove of some of the most beautiful objects you can find anywhere in London. And oh how my grandmother would have loved it.