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Off-the-beaten-track aficionados, Gary and Lorraine have a blast while beating the crowds in the largest city in the Americas.
No crowds in the world's second biggest collection of people?
Yes, we are fully aware of the irony of such a claim. In a city whose traffic jams are second only to Cairo, whose mass transit system is overloaded, and whose status as national capital means all manner of unwilling pilgrims must come here to get business done (as in Paris, London and Rome, but less efficiently than in the first two), avoiding crowds seems impossible. But wait, there are ways...
1. If you need to go someplace, Uber over. We all have our opinions about the "disruptive" influence of Uber and Lyft (and yes, the IPO tanked), but they have changed life for tourists here. Our longest ride (over an hour) set us back 6 US dollars, with a generous tip included. Cars were seldom more than 3 minutes away when ordered, and were clean, with friendly drivers who (of course) knew exactly where you wanted to go. No trying to hail a taxi, no negotiating fares, no cash required, no confusion about destinations. And no crowds.
Side note: yes, the rental bikes and scooters are also here. Don't take them - riding in a car in this traffic is scary enough!
2. Visit with Frida. Frida Kahlo's house (El Museo Frida Kahlo) amply demonstrates why she is a true modern day Mexican hero, persevering through every imaginable adversity. The house not only shows how she and Diego Rivera lived, but showcases a wide range of her art, and a few interesting pieces from his cubist period. Before you go, make sure you watch (or watch again) the film "Frida" with Selma Hayek - it is close to life and will give you important context. Given its status as a virtual national shrine, Frida and Diego's house is incredibly popular. You can buy tickets online, but don't think that will help you avoid the line that runs down the street. We got our timed tickets for 11:00, but I wish we had chosen a half hour after opening instead - we waited about a half an hour before getting in. The only people who managed to jump the queue were a tour group with an umbrella-carrying leader, so that might be worth looking into.
After your visit, Tostadas Coyoacán in the indoor street market a couple of blocks away would be an excellent stop, and a show on par with Pike Place Market in Seattle. Find them on Yelp or Tripadvisor, but for heaven's sake, ask someone directions when you get into the market, or you'll never find them. Ingredients for the tostadas are piled high like miniature volcanic mountains in front of you, expertly assembled by young chefs who alternate their responsibilities with cajoling passers by into stopping for a bite. My favorite was the ceviche (and I suffered no ill effects afterwards!). Yes, it's a bit crowded, but it's fun, and they can always find you a seat.
3. Take the boat. The canal boats (trajineros) of Xochimilco, in all their faded glory, are a rich example of Mexico City heritage. Recalling the ancient pre-conquistador history of the city, they represent the commerce in fresh farm goods that was carried by boats through a massive system of canals into the increasingly populous main city of the Mexica people. Take one of the brightly colored (and slightly down at the heel) boats on a weekday in May, as we did, and you may be the only people on the water, as your gondolier quietly poles his punt through the remaining canals. Various snacks and drinks are available from other boats you pass along the way, but you are also welcome to bring a picnic, and, if you like, your own music. On the other hand, you might find yourself coming around a bend and encountering a small mariachi band tuning up on another boat in preparation for your passing. For the right propina (tip), they'll cruise alongside your boat and play you some fine music.
Keep in mind: the embarcaderos where you hire the boats are about an hour outside of town by car, and they accept only cash (500 pesos/$30 per hour). More cash is useful if you want to buy food or hire musicians along the way. The boats can easily accommodate 8-10 people, and bringing along a picnic would be a great idea - a picnic table runs down the middle with benches on either side). While we had a very quiet and restful "no crowds" experience during the week, we are told that it's party time on Sundays, when Mexican families head out to the canals for family picnics and parties.
4. Watch politics and art collide. Diego Rivera's murals in the Palacio Nationale are outstanding examples of his work and a clear view into his politics. The main work, which graces a grand staircase, chronicles Mexican history from prehistoric times, through the brutal invasion of the conquistadors, up until the communist worker uprisings that so inspired Rivera, Trotsky, and all of his other friends in the Party. Other murals capture key aspects of Mexican life and history, such as the pyramids and canals of Moctezuma's day and the tribal wars that cemented the rule of the Mexicas before Cortez.
On the weekend, the Palacio is empty of bureaucrats, and gets very few visitors, so you have the place almost to yourself. A helpful local told us where the unmarked entry door was (at the left of the building as you face it from the main plaza). On a Saturday when the nearby streets of the Zócalo were packed with people, we waited for a couple of minutes in a line of 5 people, surrendered an ID for the period of our visit (entry is free), and walked in. Bilingual tour guides ply the queue, but we found the complete English and Spanish descriptions of all the murals to be quite adequate.
5. Refresh and dine. The downtown area (Zócalo) has any number of dining options (including a Michelin star or two), but we'll recommend two with reasonably good food, reasonable prices, but to-die-for views. For lunch, try El Mayor, a roof garden with a spectacular view of the pyramid ruins in the center (Templo Mayor). There is a formal restaurant, which often has a wait list, but also a bar with tapas and light food that has a huge capacity, so you seldom need to wait. If you're lucky, you'll arrive just as someone leaves a table at the edge, which you can quickly snag and get a truly uninterrupted view of the surroundings.
For dinner, the rooftop of the Gran Hotel de la Ciudad de Mexico is the perfect place, looking out over the plaza, the cathedral, and the Palacio Nationale, all gloriously lit for the night. We had the extra drama of dining during a crashing thunderstorm, making the scene all the more compelling, but, thanks to the awnings overhead, we never felt a drop. Reservations are taken, but apparently are seldom needed on a weekday. And you have the bonus of enjoying the hotel itself on your way up, a stunning example of art nouveau design that might look more at home in turn of the century Paris. You might well be inspired to pull the waiter aside at the end of a romantic meal and ask, "avez vous un chambre?" (Or, more appropriately, "tienen un habitacion?"). Well, Mr Bond certainly enjoyed the place, however briefly, in "Spectre".
6. Finally, pick a good neighborhood. While upscale hotels with their knowledgeable concierges can get you every experience you're after, we prefer to get more intimately connected to the city. Our Airbnb was in beautiful La Condesa, which borders the equally wonderful Roma (now famous thanks to the eponymous film). It was convenient to many destinations, especially the anthropology and art museums, and had a wonderful neighborhood feel, while still being relatively quiet at night. Parisian-style cafes lined the tree-lined streets, and the rosé wine and craft cerveza flowed freely in a wide range of bars and bistros. And because the streets were usually filled with people, you felt quite safe - we certainly never had a problem. We'll be back, that's for sure.
