tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13690737.post5799310803320678162..comments2023-10-30T13:06:22.449+00:00Comments on No Crowds: Byblos—history, haute cuisine and a harbour to rememberKate Hedgeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03990742270029066955noreply@blogger.comBlogger1125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13690737.post-19672710668597800782010-01-20T19:11:30.668+00:002010-01-20T19:11:30.668+00:00Red mullet
Other Names: Red mullet: Barbunya balig...Red mullet<br />Other Names: Red mullet: Barbunya baligi (Turkish); gewöhnliche meerbarbe (German); himeji (Japanese); koutsomoúra (Greek); rouget-barbet de vase (French); salmonete de fango (Spanish); Sultan Ibrahim ramleh (Lebanese); triglia di fango (Italian); trilia hajar (Tunisian). Striped mullet: Barboúni (Greek); bouqit, melou (Tunisian); gestreifte meerbarbe (German); himeji (Japanese); rouget-barbet de roche (French); salmonete de roca (Spanish); salmonete legitímo (Portuguese); Sultan Ibrahim sahkri (Lebanese); surmullet; tekir (Turkish); triglia di scoglio (Italian). Mullidae.<br />General Description: Two main species of the beautiful and succulent red mullet are found in the Mediterranean. Red mullet (Mullus barbatus) are rosy with gold iridescence and a straight-fronted head. The ancient Greeks regarded them as sacred to Hecate, and wealthy first-century Romans paid astronomical prices to watch its color change from red to gold, pale pink, vermilion, and blue as the fish died. Highly prized, striped red mullet (M. surmuletus) have a sloping head, stripes on their first dorsal fin, and sometimes horizontal yellow stripes on the sides, though coloring varies with surroundings. The livers are also eaten, often cooked in butter and then stuffed into the fish before baking whole. Spotted goatfish (Pseudupeneus maculatus) are related western Atlantic fish with pink to orange speckled coloring that also make for delicious eating.<br />Locale and Season: Red mullet are found throughout the Mediterranean. They are sporadically available in American fish markets, sometimes at good prices in ethnic markets. Striped red mullet are found in the Mediterranean, the Black Sea, and the eastern Atlantic. Both are in peak season in fall. Spotted goatfish are commonly found off the coast of Florida but range from New Jersey to Brazil.<br />Characteristics: Though they have tiny bones, mullet’s delicate and unique flavor and firm, buttery texture make them highly desirable, especially for pan-frying and grilling whole. Red mullet weigh up to 4 pounds; striped mullet weigh up to 2 pounds. Scaling a fresh-caught mullet will make it even redder. Yield is 45 percent.<br />How to Choose: Look for fish with shiny, brightly colored skin and clear eyes. Choose smaller fish for frying whole; larger fish for grilling, baking, and pan-frying fillets.<br />Storage: Store whole fish 2 day refrigerated on ice. Store fillets 1 day refrigerated on ice.<br />Preparation: <br />When very fresh, red mullet is often cooked whole on the grill without gutting or scaling, or it may be gutted through the gills. The scales and skin are then peeled off just before serving. <br />Grill, pan-fry, deep-fry, bake, stew, or stuff and bake.<br />Suggested Recipe: Triglia Livornese (serves 4): Season 2 pounds whole, cleaned, scaled red mullet with salt and pepper and dust with flour. In a large skillet, brown the fish in olive oil, about 3 minutes a side. Just before they’re brown, add 2 teaspoons chopped garlic, 1 teaspoon chopped thyme, 2 bay leaves, 1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley, and a pinch of hot red pepper flakes, cook briefly, then add 2 cups fresh tomato puree and 2 bay leaves. Cover and simmer about 10 minutes or until the fish flakes.<br />Flavor Affinities: Almond, anchovy, bay leaf, capers, chervil, cured olive, fennel, garlic, lemon, mint, olive oil, onion, orange, Pernod, prosciutto, rosemary, shallot, tarragon, thyme, tomato, white wine.<br />from Quirk Books: www.quirkbooks.com<br />MargeryAnonymousnoreply@blogger.com